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Friday, May 24, 2013

CHALLENGE: THE PENCIL SKIRT


rtw scalloped lace skirt thestylecure.com, floral pencil skirt burdastyle.com, yellow peplum skirt byhandlondon.com, paneled pencil skirt burdastyle.com, lilca paneled skirt burdastyle.com.

It's time for another challenge! The Pencil Skirt Challenge is our second project for the stitch once, rip twice facebook group and I'm excited to try a style I wouldn't usually pick for myself. I am debating whether to go for a more summery floral/pastel style or a something more suitable for evening wear like scalloped lace or maybe a peplum. Another idea is to take a paneled skirt pattern and play around with colour blocking in the vein of the 1960's trend which is tres fashionable right now. Decisions, decisions!

Saturday, May 11, 2013

REVEAL: GINGHAM PLAYSUIT




I have finally completed my black and white challenge project! 11 days after the deadline... but then I did just move across the world to England. Luckily my sewing machine works here, with the help of a voltage converter! I originally planned on making a much needed long sleeved white blouse with black collar tie for this challenge but as the summer crept up in Brooklyn, and with an upcoming visit to the Riviera, I was in the mood for something summery. I have always loved the fun look of play suits and retro swimwear, so I wanted to create something similar to this two piece worn by Rachel McAdams in "The Notebook" but for lounging in style rather than swimming. I feel like I achieved that with this gingham playsuit. 



The shorts are self drafted using a pair of american apparel denim shorts which I added length to, and replaced the zip with a covered elastic waistband for comfort. The top is the free bandeau pattern from Burdastyle, I just added halter straps. All of the seams are french seams and that just makes me so happy- knowing that it will last and I don't have to hand wash it in fear of it falling apart (ahem, my gingham maternity dress). The best part about this project is that it was free, I used the fabric from our old tablecloth which I made last year that we no longer needed since we donated our kitchen table before the big move. I definitely want to make this outfit again, but with exposed red elastic for the waist and under the bust and in a retro print. I ran out of gingham fabric to make a matching headscarf so I would do that too. Next time I will also give more ease at the waist of the shorts so I can slide them over my hips faster as now it is a bit tight - you want to be able to get them on and off quickly when changing at the beach. I loved this photo shoot, the courtyard here is a perfect backdrop for the black and white theme and I felt super glamorous in this outfit. So glamourous that I just had to strike a pin up pose!

Tuesday, April 23, 2013

ANNOUNCEMENT: THE HOLLYWOOD SEW



I started another blog! The Hollywood Sew is a blog dedicated to the creation of original and home-sewn outfits inspired by movies and television that I can wear everyday. Please take a look and I hope you follow along! Once there you can comment to vote on which Game of Thrones inspired dress I should make, and automatically be entered to win a prize!

Monday, April 22, 2013

REVEAL: JOAN DRESS

Please take a look at my other blog The Hollywood Sew. Once there you can comment to vote on which Game of Thrones inspired dress I should make, and automatically be entered to win a prize!


Here is my Joan dress, for the Julia Bobbin Mad Men Challenge II  I decided that for the summer (and conveniently for the deadline!) that sleeveless would be better, and I plan to add the sleeves for the winter. When I started this dress it was the first time I had worked from a store bought pattern, it went reasonably smoothly as the markings were very clear, although selecting a size continues to baffle me. No matter how many times I measure the pattern pieces I am always unsure how it will be exactly when it is finished. I guess that is just how it is when making your own clothes until you have perfect construction. I really love the colour and I think this dress has a retro feel despite it being a contemporary pattern (Simplicity New Look A6123) It really does need a good ironing before I wear it in public though! The flounce is not something I would have usually done but I really like it and will consider using again. Here was my inspiration: 


Just for fun (and because I'm sick of my grey curtain as a backdrop) I photoshopped myself into Don Draper's office. Don't tell my hubby!

Friday, April 19, 2013

REVEAL: NEON CHIFFON SORBETTO






I did it! Just in time for the Spring Top Sewalong deadline today haha. I like to live on the edge.
I love the sorbetto top, even with the very shifty fabric it was easy and fast to sew up. The longest part was choosing a size (this always stresses me out because if I can't wear it then what is the point!) I first traced out a 6 pattern but then after reading more reviews decided on a 4 which fits great, but is a little short. This is mostly because the fabric frayed so badly I had to roll the hem over twice to get a clean finish. Working with chiffon (low quality Joann's chiffon no less) was quite the pain in my behind, the fabric slid around inches while I tried to cut and must have fallen off my tiny sewing table a hundred times. Surprisingly despite this mishap the top is still symmetrical and looks like it should. Since cutting this I read that placing the shifty fabric between tissue paper while cutting resolves this problem, so next time.... 

I really love bias binding, I used the cheating method of placing it on the edge right side up and just topstitching which is how I first sewed binding without knowing about the proper technique. I find this easier and the result pleasing so why further aggravate myself! The sheer orange neon with a pastel accent is a colour combo I really like and this was one of those projects where you picture something you like and it comes out exactly how you wanted. Hope this happens again soon! Now I just have to finish and photograph the Joan dress for Monday, and the black and white project before we fly to the UK on the 30th. oh and pack up our lives too. Yikes!

Wednesday, March 27, 2013

VINTAGE VISIT: THE BROOKLYN TRANSIT MUSEUM


My Mum and brother Chris came to NYC to visit last weekend, and in a brief moment between shopping and eating we took them to the Brooklyn Transit Museum. I had walked past a few times when we lived in Fort Greene but had never been inside. The museum is actually set in an old subway, with a real subway entrance and an original metroticket booth at the beginning. We were all really impressed with the exhibit and I had no idea that there were vintage trains on show! I managed to snap some pictures on my IPhone before we left (apologies for the low quality):










There is always time fron an impromptu film-noir vanity shoot!

Thursday, March 21, 2013

BURDASTYLE COMPETITION WIN!!!!


 In exciting news I won The Jackie Dress: Style It Your Way! competition at Burdastyle with my comment in answer to the question:

"How would you style the 1960s Jackie Dress? Tell us why you like this pattern, what fabric you’d make it in, and where you’d wear it to."
I would style this dress in a bright jewel solid, maybe blue or purple, with a black leather bow. To be worn with polka dot black sheer stockings and black patent chunky heels. I like the pattern because it is classical and elegant, plus it seems like it would be very flattering. I would probably like it best in a structured wool (does that exist?! would also be a fun challenge as I haven’t sewn with wool before) and would wear it on my next flight to look super glamourous!

They are sending me a copy of Sewing Vintage Modern! I have wanted it for a while now so I'm really pleased I won one. I think the shift dress will be my first project as I just ordered some lace which needs a simple pattern. Thanks Burdastyle!

Tuesday, March 19, 2013

JOAN DRESS UPDATE



Progress has sped up significantly since I moved my sewing machine into the living room, not having to go through Zeke's room means I can sew easily when he takes naps. All I have left to do  is to put in the zipper, attach the sleeves and hem the bottom. I say all, but the former two make me very nervous... ah well practice makes perfect so I better just get on with it. I have a feeling that the bodice might need taking in, but that's what I get for being too lazy to make a muslin or grade from a 10 top to 12 bottom.

I didn't smile in pics back then as I hated my braces!
I had totally forgotten about this art project I made at fifteen, and I saw this photo again last weekend. I took junk food wrappers and stuck them onto clear contact paper to make a 'fabric' which I then used to construct a corset and full skirt. Unfortunately I don't have any pics of the whole outfit, but I guess I should say this was my first sewing project from now on!

This week I have been dreaming about shift dresses, retro swimwear, boat neck dresses and scalloped lace overlays. Getting ready for the big move is taking up a lot of my 'free' time. Knowing that I am going to be sewing machine-less for May and June I am trying to prioritize what I need to get done before then for our trip to France for my sister's graduation. 

Thursday, March 7, 2013

ENSEMBLE: NEW SHOES AND AN OLD SKIRT


skirt: altered sample, cardigan: Topshop, shoes: new from Aerosoles!

I took home a lot of samples from my old job, most of which were cheap looking yoga pants, but this chiffon-esque pleated skirt was one of the rare tasteful ones. I haven't been able to wear it because the waist elastic was too big, so this week in the vein of mend and make do, I undid the casing and removed three inches of the elastic. It is still a little loose around the waist, which is why I can tuck in a cardigan (is that a terrible fashion faux pas? I feel like my brothers would have a field day!). I love the length of the skirt and have wanted a pleated skirt for a while now so this feels like an achievement  I must have had that cardigan for over eight years, I like it paired with anything and I always feel victorian whenever I wear it. The new shoes are super comfy and I love their retro vibe. I can't wait to wear them out but until then I keep them in plain view so I can enjoy just looking at them!



So far I am living up to my vow to refashion and clear out, last weekend I schlepped a bunch of clothes that were not donation appropriate to Beacon's Closet and got $63 cash in return. Getting rid of stuff is oddly therapeutic and upsetting at the same time. I'm reading Mindy Kaling's book 'Is Everyone Hanging Out Without Me? (And Other Concerns)' and she talks about her friend being "a hoarder of the cheerful, social, Christmas-lights-year-round variety" I currently harbour no less than three sets of Christmas lights... Hopefully my hoarding behaviour will be stunted by our relocation.

Although this minor skirt alteration doesn't really count as a refashion, I plan to update a navy chiffon blouse I don't really wear as it feels too dark, with a white peter pan collar from the leftover crepe for the black and white challenge. I think my goal to only refashion existing garments and sew new ones is realistic except for the following necessities: 1) jeans for fit and durability 2) underwear for fit, comfort and durability 3: shoes! maybe this won't always be the case, for jeans and underwear, but right now that's where I'm at.



The Joan dress is coming along slowly but surely, I'm researching facings and seam finishes to get it right. I'm really excited to see how it turns out.

Monday, March 4, 2013

THE BLACK AND WHITE CHALLENGE



Because one sewing challenge at a time is not enough, I have collaborated with some lovely ladies to make our own group challenge. Diane of Vintage Zest, Kristin of Sew Classic, Sabrina at Sweet French Toast, Tiffany at Tiffany's notions and knits and Victoria at Very Blissful are the other members, it's open to other novice sewists upon invitation so just comment if you are interested in joining. I can't wait to see everyone's projects through the stages. I love that this kind of group encourages exploration in something you wouldn't necessarily have thought of doing. For our first challenge we have picked 'Black and White'. When I think of 'black and white' as a fashion concept I see Gwen Stefani, Minnie Mouse, stripes, polka dots, sailors (yet that would probably be more navy and white) the list goes on....





I'm pretty sure I want to go for a crepe blouse, to cover my versatile blouse gap in my wardrobe. I will be buying the fabric online as I don't see myself having the time or energy to go into Manhattan with baby Zeke in time to complete the project for the challenge deadline (end of April). I'm thinking fabric.com as its the most affordable but it still scares me to order without feeling the weight of the fabric. I could buy a swatch but not all the fabrics I'm looking at have that option. Plus I can't find answers to the following questions- what weight is crepe suiting? Is this the same as crepe shirting? and is off-white verrrrrry noticeably not white at all or just a little faded/vintage white looking? 

Wednesday, February 27, 2013

SEWING GOALS: A COMPLETE WARDROBE


After all my talk of sewing what I need versus what I want, I decided to make a list of both to see where it all stands. These are a work in progress, but I can see already that I should be rearranging my schedule to make the complete wardrobe projects a priority. I don't want to take the fun out of my sewing, just have a clear idea of when I'm sewing something I really need or more of an extra statement piece.






I'm in the process of deciding what to refashion and what to chuck before the big move, hence my earlier question of how to refashion for the better... knowing I can keep old clothes as fabric makes the decisions all that much harder. I guess I will first have to organize what is not reusable/refashionable out of the stuff I dont wear before I can see what is left. This wouldn't be so difficult if I wasn't such a hoarder!

Monday, February 25, 2013

REVEAL: POLKA DOT SKIRT!







The polka dot skirt made an appearance at my brother's birthday brunch last weekend. It is really comfy and the lack of a slit didn't seem to pose a problem. The fabric is very thin so although a lining would make it more figure flattering, I think the lightness gives it a designer feel. I didn't use a pattern, it is basically two rectangles sewn together with french seams down the sides and an elastic casing at the top, hem on the bottom. I still plan on re-hemming it to a 1940's knee length after I have worn it in this length for a while. I wore it with a Paul Smith brooch my mum gave me for Christmas, that is made of vintage Valentino buttons to form an Owl (each brooch is unique and comes with a registration number).


I pinned the pieces of my Joan dress to the dress form and it looks as if it might be a good fit, fingers crossed! Now I just have to sew it together but that requires following instructions, which I hate to do!

Friday, February 22, 2013

JOAN DRESS PROGRESS



Yay! Finally I was able to work on my Joan dress, the pics are proof of my labour. My assistant took lots of breaks to lounge in his chair, but since he was such good company I forgive him. Figuring out how to place the pieces was the hardest part, I didn't buy enough fabric silly me, but after many configurations I found one that worked. The sleeves and some of the neckline facings are not cut on the grain as specified in the instructions but at least I had enough fabric this way. Hopefully this will not affect the drape/fit of the dress too much since I dont plan on doing any aerobics, oh wait- every day is like an aerobics class with baby Zeke.

Look Mum I can kick my own socks off, tee hee!
Next I am pinning the cloth pieces to my new dress form, more for fun but also to see how it's going to look. I agonized over which size would fit and in the end, after calculating the finished waist measurement (why Simplicity don't think that golden nugget would be useful is beyond me) I decided that a size 14 would be the best bet. We will see soon enough... or not depending on when I can get on the machine. Even if I can't sew, Polka dot skirt might get an outing this weekend for my brother's birthday shenanigans... 

A few things have been on my mind recently:

- Refashioning clothes in a way that improves them not just changes them.
- Sewing multiple projects at once, motivating or stressful?
- Vintage wear with an active lifestyle (Vintage active wear is not the answer haha)

Friday, February 15, 2013

MAD MUM CHALLENGE!


I manage to read blogs that I follow on a daily basis but finding time to write my own is challenging to say the least, actually sewing seems to be impossible sometimes. Just when baby Zeke has fallen asleep I remember I need something that in his room to make progress on a current project. That plus exhaustion by the end of the day (trying to calculate pattern alterations while he is awake is not an option) means weeks can go by before I sew. This frustrates me no end. Then I read pattern reviews for a project I'm planning to do and the trials of others reminds me I am not alone, and that I have come a long way. After my first two garment attempts it seemed like sewing clothes would be more of a hobby than something I could actually wear, I genuinely thought that home sewing might not be durable enough for washing machines and actual movement in the clothes, such as sitting down or folding ones arms! I could have given up but I didn't, I don't know why I was so determined but I am so glad that I stuck it out and can now wash, wear, sit and move while wearing something I sewed. Now I have reflected on my appreciation for home sewing (a little behind sew grateful week which is right on time by my schedule haha) I can move onto more creative thoughts- my mad men dress challenge II plans. The pattern I intend to use is Simplicity 6123, with view A (bottom left) for the bodice and sleeves and view B (top left) for the skirt. The fabric is a green cotton sateen I got on sale at Joann's in Tennessee with my mum (her favorite colour is green actually so I will think of her when I wear this dress!) Although I relate much more to Betty's style I wanted to try something different and more typically retro so I took my inspiration from a dress worn by Joan.


 POST TITLE


Hopefully I will get this done on time for the April deadline! My goal is to cut the fabric this weekend.

Friday, February 8, 2013

BROOKLYN WE SEW HARD



It was high time to take down the wreath so to hang in its place I fashioned a Prospect Park, Brooklyn homage that we can take to England when we move as a souvenir. Frame: freebie from set, Ribbon: from a tea towel gift set, Printed paper: wrap from a gift, Photo corners: left over from wedding album, Postcards: 99c each from a local stationary store. Total cost = $1.98 The paper is a little busy to be a background but I love the print so I wanted to reuse it. 

I've been thinking a lot lately about vintage fashions, maybe because I am participating in the Madmen dress challenge II at Juliabobbin.com and have subsequently been researching mid-century style, plus my ongoing addiction to watching period dramas currently has me dreaming about the 30's and 40's look thanks to the Upstairs Downstairs remake. Much of what I have been reading in the blogosphere recently is about the detrimental impact of throw away fashion and how sewing can be a way to combat the problem. This made me proud that I am sewing most of my clothes and altering existing garments. However it did lead me to ponder about how even home sewing can produce similarly wasteful results. 

For example, I have two evening/smart dresses in my sewing plans yet I will unlikely have an opportunity to wear them until at least six months from now as they cannot be worn with a nursing bra and what I really wear right now is sweatpants and cold weather boots... I want to make them as it seems more rewarding to create something beautiful rather than practical even if it's barely worn but isn't buying factory produced fabric for that that just as bad as funding the sweatshop industry? I'm not saying they will never be worn or that they will go out of fashion and will be thrown out but they definitely do not qualify as a sensible investment of my time and money. The new skirt I made has yet to be worn due to the fact that I can only wear cold weather boots for the snow and flats for carrying Baby Z down the treacherous stairs at present.

But what about sewing for practice and fun? If I only made what I would get daily use from then I would never learn how to sew collars and facings and zippers (this list could go on forever) and sewing with only navy fleece and jersey would be very dull indeed. My conclusion is that although home sewing is better than shopping at chain stores it is not entirely without waste, especially when it is also practiced as a hobby rather than solely for function. 

Thursday, February 7, 2013

DEEP THOUGHTS


Since I was about fifteen I have known exactly what I wanted to do with my life, I had every last detail planned for the next fifteen years- I was going to design sets for period dramas then meet my husband around age thirty and have our four children. I didn't, however, think about how I would maintain my career while caring for said offspring. I lived up to my own expectations in that I did pursue a career in film, it just didn't suit me. Working fifteen plus hours a day, on my feet, often outside and far away from home was not what I had envisioned. I had to work for free just to gain experience even though I wasn't necessarily doing more than manual labour rather than learning relevant skills. 

I landed my first well paid job as an art director for a tv show, it was ultra low budget and I was expected to work on the weekend without additional pay. The crew were fun, as most crews I worked with were, and many of my closest friends are from film sets. I had just been swept off my feet into blissful matrimony by Husband and after spending our first week of marriage separated as I was on a film out of town and then not being able to see him during the week to not at all, I decided that I could not hack the film crew lifestyle. The potential career satisfaction was not worth the sacrifice of a social life /spending any time at all with my soulmate. On top of which after having met Husband eight years ahead of schedule the idea of waiting ten years to start a family was unbearable and film set conditions are not conducive to a large family lifestyle, especially while breastfeeding.

I then decided with the help of Husband to switch careers and work as a textile print designer. I loved the design work, even designing and editing prints for the trashy throw away fashion brand I worked for was challenging and inspiring. But soon I became aware of how under valued and very underpaid I was, this on top of a daily office grind which I had not experienced anything like since high school and an abusive superior led me to take up a better offer. This one was not much better paid but my boss was friendly and not only aware but appreciative of my design skills. Still the nagging feeling that I was using my designs and getting a very minor percentage of the profit was depressing. Of course I realize that there is a place for in house designers and team work but it just doesn't satisfy my need to have ownership of what I create.   

Now I am faced with the decision of what to do about it. Right now I am in the very lucky position of being able to stay at home and care for my fourteen week old son. It feels like nothing could be better than nursing, playing and singing to him but I know myself well enough that the idea of returning to the professionally creative world might be something I want to reconsider in the future and I always plan ahead. Husband and I agree that a home run design business is the best option for me to maintain my dream of a four children family, but then every way I look at it something has to give, either I won't put in the hours necessary to achieve a successfully run home business or I will feel like I don't give my children the attention they deserve and I am, hopefully, financially able to give. 

After initial research the universally acknowledged factor seems to be the underestimation of how many hours are needed to run your own (even small home based) business. Will I be able and willing to dedicate the time required? I never shied away from hard work but does having children change that completely? Also will what I gain in professional endeavors render my enjoyment of 'free time' impossible? My son and I sit together while he plays and I can bake/sew/blog and watch period dramas that Husband would never want to watch at the weekend (thankfully for our marriage we like a lot of the same current shows) This all may seem like a ridiculous thing to worry about now, or at all since I am not forced to work. Watching other mothers begrudgingly tear themselves away from their three month olds to rejoin the overworked American work force after a practically non existent maternity leave makes me feel guilty to consider doing so voluntarily even if it is a long way down the road. I guess what it boils down to is can you have a successful home business and give your children the best upbringing at the same time...

On a lighter note the polka dot skirt is finished and I will be posting pictures soon. 


Friday, January 11, 2013

JINGLE TOES AND HAIR BOWS



2012 was the best year yet- we had baby Zeke, my brother moved to New York, and I started and now love sewing. I am pretty happy with my accomplishments- one skirt, two maternity dresses, a baby elf costume, two pairs of curtains, and a tablecloth to name a few. My goals for 2013 are this: find time to sew. With baby Zeke I dont have any down time until the weekend when Husband can take over and then I have chores that I need to do first.





The last minute Elf costume (pictured above) came out swell. Since I used felt the edges didn't need finishing which left me time to make these elf clogs! I resized an xmas decoration pattern based on an existing pair of his shoes and added bells on the toes. The added all in one underneath and hat finished the look perfectly.
Over the holidays in Nashville I went to Joann's and stocked up on fabrics for my next 5 projects- two evening dresses, two skirts and a fleece baby blanket. Maybe two evening dresses aren't the most practical choice for my current role as milk machine but I have very few smart dresses and my size has not fluctuated in the last few years, apart from a 9 month stretch ;) so I feel like I can get good use in the post-lactating future. My new dress form, a late birthday present from Husband, will make draping easier for a fitted dress too so I'm eager to test it out. Here's my updated project list by season:


In the spirit of the new year I decided to cut my hair really short (for me... I've had mid-back length hair since I was a teenager) thinking it would be more for saving time than a beauty choice but actually I love it! It is easy to style with a quick bow and doesn't frizz out into a hedge as I was expecting. It makes me think about taking other exciting risks I would never have considered!


Speaking of exciting risks.... we have settled on our decision to relocate to my native land England. We are very excited for the move to the English countryside, although I will miss my little bro :( we will be closer to the rest of my family. 2013 is already looking great!

Sunday, December 23, 2012

REVEAL: THE BABY SHOWER DRESS





Since this picture was taken at my shower I have given birth to baby Zeke! However since this is primarily a sewing blog and I am finally able to fit in crafting and blogging again I will stay on topic... This dress came out so much better than I could have hoped for, especially construction wise. I tried my hand at french seams and will never go back, fabric weight permitting of course. Properly finished seams are so satisfying, knowing that the garment will, in theory, survive a machine wash makes it all the more worth the time spent making ones own clothes haha. I decided to opt for a white trim at Husband's suggestion and I think it turned out very sweet paired with my blue mules, a little christmas cheerleader but hey- now I can wear it around the holidays with future pregnancies. Incidentally it seems to look pretty normal on my post partum body anyway.

What did I learn from this project? Asides from furthering my drafting skills and figuring out how to drape a Bump, I know now to ALWAYS add any binding last. I tried to sew the shoulder seams after the neck binding was attached and it made them so bulky I spent ages trying to trim them, eventually weakening the seam so badly that it had to be reinforced with a zigzag topstitch. This was quite unsightly and although not very noticeable to anyone else, I knew it was botched! Another lesson learned was that I always make armholes too high, this dress is still wearable just not too breathable in New York humidity. The armhole and neckline facings and the bust darts came out beautifully and overall I am amazed that the dress fit my full term figure so well. I can't wait to sew maternity clothes next time when I have more experience. Until then I have breastfeeding friendly designs to create.

In the works now is Baby Zeke's Elf costume, it's so cute already I can't wait to see him in it when it's finished!